Fez, Morocco sometimes written as Fes, Morocco was the capital of the country until 1925 and has long been considered the spiritual home of the country. The Fez medina is one of the largest car-free zones in the world and is a UNESCO world heritage site. It’s been dwarfed in recent years by larger and more tourist-oriented Marrakech but offers visitors a different look at Moroccan life.
Modern day Fez was founded in 789 by Idriss I on the Jawhar River that runs through the city. It is in the north of the country sandwiched between the Rif Mountains and Middle Atlas Mountains. Within 50 years there were two large waves of immigrants that came to form settlements, one on each side of the river. 800 families from Andalusia arrived and settled what is today “Old Fez” while 2000 families banned from Kariouan Tunisia formed New Fez or al-Aliya.
This would later become an issue as the Caliphate of Cordoba and Caliphate of Tunisia contested who ruled the city. By 1070 it was resolved as the Almoravid dynasty united the city both figuratively and literally as they broke down the walls that divided the settlements and united it into one medina.
Historical Sites
Take time to decide what you’ll want to see when you’re in Fez. There are many historical sites though not all are open to the inside.
Marinid Tombs
Are there secrets in Fez? Of course, and this is one of them! These ruins are located on the hills above the Fez medina and while there are still some inscriptions no one really knows who is buried here or the story behind the ruins. It’s a good spot to go with kids (open space and no vehicles), and provides great views looking down on the medina and surrounding mountainside.
Al-Attarine Madrasa
Located near the famous Karouine mosque and university, this school was built in 1323. The spice and perfume market is on the edge of the spice and perfume market. Inside you’ll find a gorgeously designed courtyard and hand-laid tiles adorning the floors and walls.
Karaouine Mosque and University
The oldest degree granting university – and still in operation – in the world is something to see. Even more interesting, this school and mosque was founded, funded and built by a woman – Fatima al-Fihri. The mosque portion is not open to non-Muslims but there is an entryway that you can look into. Recently the library (the oldest in the world!) connected to the university was restored and is open to the public.